Thursday, April 16, 2015

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent c1977

Opium was launched in 1977 by designer Yves Saint Laurent. In association with Squibb Corporation, who owned the Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz subsidiary who handled the Yves Saint Laurent fragrance division. It was created by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac of Roure after 30 tries to get it right.  



In 1976, the fragrance division of Yves Saint Laurent was looking to launch a big name perfume to compete with the burgeoning American companies who were busy launching their own big hits, such as Norell, Revlon and Halston. In the mid-60s, using highly developed sales strategies combined with excellent juice, American cosmetic companies exploded onto the US perfume market. 

Jean Amic, secretary general of Roure, the company that created Opium said, "The French had developed an inferiority complex vis-a-vis the Americans. Opium showed that with a good product and a good concept, well put together and well promoted, the French can still go far. Now everybody is saying if Saint Laurent can do it, why can't we?" He added that "The Americans were less creative in terms of fragrance, so they created concepts to make up for it." He was speaking of course to the smash hits Charlie by Revlon, Norell by Norell. and Estee Lauder's megahit, Youth Dew. The US market flooded with their own fragrances which edged out the French competition.

YSL plotted behind the scenes to retake the American market and succeeded in a way that no one could imagine. Even though Squibb is an American company, the industry experts regarded Opium as a French affair, planned and executed in Paris. Chanteal Ross, YSL Parfums' international marketing manager, said "We had lost ground to the Americans. So we decided to attack the Americans on their own terms. YSL Parfums decided to take an French perfume and intensify it to satisfy the American woman's taste for stronger perfumes. The French on the other hand, preferred their scents to be subtle and discreet, in other words, they would wear the perfume, rather than the perfume wear them. The result would be a highly concentrated scent in a ratio of one part oil to four parts liquid. 

"You can divide the world's noses into two categories, the Anglo Saxon and the Latin," said Miss Ross. "You can smell an American woman when she walks into a room. French smells are usually forgettable."

The new YSL scent would be a heady Oriental full of spice. It was aimed at the woman who yearned to feel feminine again. YSL put out feelers to several French laboratories that regularly compete against one another. YSL Parfums went with Roure Bertrand Dupont. The company's most sensitive 'nose', Jean Louis Sieuzac, took to task to create what would eventually be the world's newest blockbuster. "My whole life is linked to odors" said Sieuzac, who related that he was inspired by smells of his childhood. The Opium fragrance came after more than thirty tries over more than two years by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac of Roure.

With the juice out of the way, YSL Parfums began to mull over packaging designs, advertising and marketing campaigns. The wanted to win over the woman who saw herself as privileged, luxurious, seductive as well as shocking, or if she had aspirations of those traits.

Next came the name. Yves Saint Laurent apparently came up with the name "Opium." Although Squibb, initially was not keen on the perfume’s name, Yves Saint Laurent demanded that it was “Opium or no perfume.”  He said the name was not meant to simulate a drug induced decadence, because that the word opium evoked all the poetic and timeless Oriental images in his own mind. He said that his perfume epitomizes "a release of imagination, and ability to fantasize and dream, a certain quality of opulence and luxe that is delirious, romantic, as sensual and mysterious as the farthest reaches of the ancient Orient itself." Yves also stated that “when a woman loses her mystery, she is all finished forever, she has lost the most important thing she had.” He also confessed that "I am serious with a great sense of humor," and felt his creation of Opium was an important event on par with Coco Chanel's ingenious invention of Chanel No. 5. he said it was one of his "most important" achievements. 

The perfume was billed as a “mysterious, sensual and incredibly feminine, Opium is a unique blend of rare oils and essences designed to evoke visions of the fantastical and colorful legends and the lore of the Orient. A fabulous , disturbing fragrance, audacious, disconcerting The first perfume to be truly wild and sensual.” The French advertisement for Opium read "... for those who are addicted to Yves Saint Laurent".
 



The Controversy:



When it was introduced, Opium sparked vicious complaints by many who wanted to ban it or have the company simply change the name of the perfume. Even some Chinese Americans were outraged and against YSL for choosing the name Opium. 

James Tso, chairman of the Committee for Equal Opportunity of the Organization of Chinese-Americans Inc. said we was outraged not only by the perfume's name, which he dubbed  a "psychological pollution," but by a marketing strategy based on "a menace that destroyed many lives in China and other countries." He wrote a letter of protest to Squibb and  requested a name change saying "The use of negative Chinese images to market Opium is not at all unlike the use of negative Black images to market a product named Heroin; or similarly, negative White images to market Valium." In the letter, he demanded a public apology from Saint Laurent for "his insensitivity to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns."

Richard M. Furland, chairman of Squibb, responded that the marketing strategy was based on "the romance, mystery and beauty of the Orient." He said although Charles of the Ritz distributed the fragrance and Squibb was not directly involved, he was distressed that anyone would think that the name of the perfume was an affront to the Chinese. "Charles of the Ritz did not choose the name; Yves Saint Laurent chose the name. Charles of the Ritz had very little choice, as they were the distributors...I think the name was a genuine fashion statement by Saint Laurent and I don't feel it was drug related." He added that if Squibb had vetoed the name, that would have been "artistic and commercial censorship."  

However, Opium apparently also offended various Black groups, antidrug groups, agencies within the US Department of Health, Education and Welfare, and the chairman of the House Select Committee on Narcotics Abuse and Control. They claimed that the appalling advertising campaign for the perfume was a slur against Asian, because the scourge of the opium drug trade is generally associated with China, not only that - the advertising glamorized illegal drugs.

Dr. Mitchell S. Rosenthal, president of the drug free residential program, Phoenix House Foundation, said, "It's a sad commentary on the ambient level of drug abuse. It's part of the romanticization of drugs, that they're OK, that they're no big thing, that they're chic. The name is capitalizing on the wrong things. When you sit on this side of the cultural equation and see kids injured by drugs, you feel different about it."

Many people thought that Yves Saint Laurent was condoning drug use by choosing the name of the illicit drug. Other organizations and countries protested the use of the name and appealed to the Squibb Corporation to change the name. Squibb responded that Opium was so uncontroversial in its previous Canadian and European debuts that its doubts about its acceptance in the US were dispelled. However, Charles of the Ritz withdrew its ads, Squibb apologized for its insult to the American-Oriental community.

Claire McDaniel, director of publicity for Charles of the Ritz said, "The name Opium is a fashion statement from Yves St Laurent. It was not meant to be taken literally and was not meant to insult anyone of Chinese origin. We don't tamper with artistic discretion. The affluent clientele, for which the product was designed, have indeed accepted it for what it is, namely, a very beautiful Oriental-type fragrance in a romantic and lovely package...It is not viewed in any way as drug-related. The attitude of the Opium ad is one of great opulence, sophistication, and haute couture elegance. the model wears a $6,000 gown from Yves Saint Laurent's Oriental evening wear collection. The ad says 'Opium by Yves Saint Lauren,' in great big letters."

An organized group known as the American Coalition Against "Opium" and Drug Abuse wanted Squibb to change the name, and threatened to boycott Squibb and Yves Saint Laurent products unless the drug company conceded to their demands. They offered alternative names such as Lotus, Enchantment and Jewel of the Orient. But, Squibb did not want the name changed because all of the money that went into the product would be completely wasted. In 1979, Squibb formed a "social action" committee in the midst of the controversy, which they felt would make its own recommendations regarding a name change. At one of the meetings, Ethel Palmer, a shareholder of Squibb Corporation said, "I don't think the name Opium is appropriate for your new fragrance. Why don't you call it something else?"

Franklin H. Williams, president of the Phelps Stokes Fund and chairman of the New York State advisory committee to the United States Civil Rights Commission saw an advertisement fo the fragrance and was not happy. He said that the first thing he saw was "a beautiful Caucasian woman obviously zonked out - in another world- and a tracery of leaves strongly resembling cannabis. I thought the name was irresponsible marketing strategy. Its sort of tragic that they have boxed themselves in this way. Looking at the names of the members (of Squibb), it's one of the better corporate boards. the irony is incredible that a drug company as reputable as Squibb would want to to push this name on us."

Judianne Densen-Gerber, chief executive officer of Odyssey House, a drug rehab program said, When I first saw the name, I was shocked out of my mind. I couldn't believe it was being promoted." However, she confessed that she bought a bottle in London to bring back to the states to show others in the program, and said, "I was delighted with the perfume. The name is terrible; the perfume is delightful. I wish people like Saint Laurent, who have this creative talent, also had a social conscience."

Rather than concentrating on the name's association with the drug trade, Charles of the Ritz maintained that the scent was reminiscent of the romanticism of the early 20th century when chinoiserie was the vogue in everything from objets d'art to home furnishings to jewelry and fine silk fabrics. Furland said, "Mr. Saint Laurent is, I think, a genius in the artistic world. Opium has had a smashing success abroad, and its name is part of the concept."

The government of Queensland, Australia objected to the name and banned the sale of the fragrance in their state saying the name misrepresents the contents of the bottle. The health department said the perfume could be marketed in the state if the name was changed. They advised the Australian distributor of the perfume, Bentley Fragrances of Sydney, that the name would be a breach of the Queensland Health Act. "It is a misrepresentation of the contents of the bottle and therefore breaches the Act. It will not be allowed in Queensland shops under that name." The Queensland Health Minister, Dr. Edwards, said the Health Department was prepared to co-operate with manufacturers and distributors before goods went on sale to ensure that the public was not misled. "We don't market opium, we only handles Yves Saint Laurent's Opium perfume," said a spokesman for Bentley Fragrances. It was pointed out that all the YSL flacons carried the French word parfum under the name to avoid any misunderstandings with Customs officials. Erwin Otvosi, managing director of YSL in Australia said, "It is on sale in Singapore, Hong Kong, the USA and even in Arab countries without ever being banned because of the name."

It apparently didn't matter that the YSL flacons carried the French word parfum under the name, some travelers who purchased Opium in Europe had US Customs agents raise their brows over the name, and even prompted them to open the packages to see if there really was illicit drugs inside. 

In the United States, the national ministries department of the American Baptist Church had protested the marketing of the perfume, saying that the use of the word “opium” was offensive. In a letter to the Squibb Corporation, they further stated that the advertising for the perfume suggested that opium was "somehow glamorous" and added that "this is repugnant to us." However, I find it interesting as the church had 11,000 shares of Squibb common stock.

Squibb's committee on social responsibility recommended no name change and the board of directors concurred. Squibb took a vote amongst members of its corporate executives, which ended in an agreement to change all advertising and promotional materials - but keep the name "Opium." The ads deemed offensive were to be modified and hired a marketing research company "to find out how the public perceives the name." Martin H. Schmidt, president and chief executive officer, released the report of the "careful, statistically valid study" which stated that public opinion in the Chinese-American, Black and Caucasian communities, had not substantiated the two major criticisms. "The public, as represented by the samples studied, accepts Yves Saint Laurent's fragrance Opium for what it is - an expensive, rather exotic perfume and nothing more. In addition to the survey, the market acceptance of the fragrance clearly supports this conclusion."

Soon after Charles of the Ritz agreed to abandon its ad campaign, the campaign was awarded top honors for "best national advertising campaign"  at the annual Fragrance Foundation "FiFi" Awards, and Opium itself received the "best-fragrance" award.

Meanwhile, in other parts of the world, the demand for Opium grew exponentially despite its controversial name.

Yvon Lafreniere, vice president of marketing for Sanre, Inc, which distributed the line in Canada said that the Opium line had been available since November 1977 with no complaints. Contrary to rumors that flew around North America, the name Opium had not been banned in Europe or in any state in the US. It had only been banned in two states in Australia, but, he said he didn't know which ones. "Our problem is getting supplies. It comes from France and they don't meet world demand. We are constantly out of stock," said Lafreniere.

Wallace Butterwick, regional supervisor of the Bureau of Dangerous Drugs at Vancouver, Canada said they had received no complaints, even though "we don't like," he said the name was breaking no Canadian laws. Additionally, a spokesperson for Health and Welfare Canada at Ottawa noted that "We're not aware of any problem. There have been no complaints. They can call it whatever they like." She said the department wouldn't react to a name on a label, but said if someone complained, the complaint would be investigated.


The American Launch Party:



The perfume was a "sell out" in Paris since its debut in November 1977. Clerks in the duty free shops of France said that the entire line from the inexpensive eau de toilette to the expensive parfum sold out within three to four days to an international mix of customers. After a successful year of sales in France, YSL introduced Opium to America in Sept 1978. The company expected more of the same in the USA. By August 1978, sales in Europe soared to more than $25 million. If demand from retailers in Europe were any indication, the company figured sales in America would be phenomenal.

Opium had the biggest and most extravagant American introduction the world had ever seen used for a perfume, headed by designer Rennie Reynolds and hosted by Charles of the Ritz. Saint Laurent invited special guests because he said they were his friends and his fans, and were leaders in the world. Some of his "friends" and "fans" included Cher, Bill Blass, Halston, Andy Warhol, Barbara Walters, Jacqueline Onassis, Chessie Rayner, Faye Dunaway, Mikhail Baryshnikov, Diana Vreeland, Whitney Tower Jr., Truman Capote, Pierre Berge, Isabel and Freddie Eberstadt, Shelly Wanger, Grace (Mirabella( and Dr. Willian Cahan, Nan Kempner, Count Guy de Brantes, Kenneth Jay Lance, Jonathan Lieberson, Dina Merrill, Liz Smith, Stephen Burrows, Beth Ann Hardison, Nan Kemper, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Giorgio Sant'Angelo, Bill Haire, Egon von Furstenberg, Mary McFadden, Consuelo Crespi, Lynn Wyatt, Warren Beatty, Mick Flick, plus  Kennedys, Rockefellers and Kissingers.

A spectacular gala costing a quarter of a million dollars, was thrown for the launch, on a antique Chinese junk, the four masted, Peking, which was permanently berthed at New York's South Street Seaport. On their way to the lavishly decorated boat, some 800 or so guests strolled along a walk strewn with sequins and rose petals and lighted by dozens of red silk Chinese lanterns. Once they ascended the gangplank,  their eyes were treated to a beautiful scene: a thousand pound bronze statue of  Buddha, 30 huge Chinese fans, big canvas cushions,  rattan deck furniture, and gold, red and purple streamers hung from the masts and blew in the sea breeze. A spectacular "orchid forest" awaited them on deck, "made up of dozens of bamboo poles and lacquered faux trees covered with thousands of pure white cattleya orchids and strewn with straw at the base.

Guests drank 30 cases of Bollinger champagne and nibbled on cucumber sandwiches, while other guests nibbled on steak and veal tartare. 13,000 succulent oysters, clams on the half shell and marinated mussels were served in a clam sculptured in ice which stood six foot tall. Waiters passed fried shrimp with hot mustard and duck parts dripped in honey. 

They danced to Studio 54 tapes and were delighted with an incredible $34,000 fireworks display set off on a couple of nearby barges which sparked the end of the gala that night. Whether instructed or not, 27 guests took home some of the large Chinese fans as free party favors. Guests were given a beautifully printed, limited edition booklet with text by Yves Saint Laurent, citing poetic associations about the name of the perfume.

Not ready to end the evening, several hundred guests then went onto Studio 54, which was decorated like an opulent opium den. The discotheque's lobby was filled with beds and floor cushions for lounging while guests snacked on morning fare: omelettes and champagne.

The Press Material was upon creamy paper embossed in gold, terracotta, and blue, arrives in a black lacquered paper folder closed with a black silk tassel wrapped around with a faux cinnabar medallion. 

Inside a purple colored folder, "Yves Saint Laurent is no ordinary designer. He is a poet of the rare and the pleasurable. It has been said of Saint Lauren that he does not design clothes, he celebrates women...What is perfume but an emotion, a catalyst to enchant and mystify and please. And what is Opium, but an evocation of our most exotic fantasies.  The descriptions of the perfume are no less than breathtaking, "an audaciously sensual fragrance...warm, slightly animal notes...exotic...spellbinding...incredibly sensual, feminine, sensual and wild. We invite you to sail with us to the Wilder Shores. To Smyrna and to Samarkand, to Khafiristan and Katmandu. Where trysts are commonplace and the senses rule. Set sail with us to the mysterious Orient..Not as it is..but as it is in the mind's eye.. frightening and serene...wild and voluptuous...for which of us has not, in our most secret dreams, fought sword to sword with Samurais.....swept through the skies on the pigtail of a blue Djinn. A rare fragrance reminiscent of the wonders and mysteries of the East, designed and created to evoke imaginings, of the veiled bazaars of Baghdad, of the secret pleasure palaces of sultans and sheiks, of fabulous Xanadu and of magnificent warriors and their beautiful women, so exquisitely adept in the art of love...Where enchantment is commonplace and dreams most certainly come true. We invite you to experience Opium."


The Perfume's American Launch:


The perfume was set to roll out first to select department stores in New York City before entering any other sector in the USA. The idea is to build an aura of exclusivity and desire along with anticipation through aggressive marketing strategies. Promotion would be limited to in-store sampling, following the YSL world-wide ban on free gifts or purchases with purchases on Opium. Part of the marketing strategy was to sell Opium at the same high prices everywhere.

Kristina Wrba said that no one in the USA could produce the Lucite container or handmade tassels for the perfume, hence everything was being imported from France, which at the time, meant a limited supply of the fragrance for the select few retailers who would carry the line. Wrba distributed Opium through 12 stores with a total of 120 outlets. By 1980, 800 outlets would have the line, "and that's it," she said.

Saint Laurent requested that the Opium perfume would be distributed only in select high end shops at a high price, $100 per ounce. About the high ticket of the scent, Miss Ross said "We wanted to find a hole somewhere. Everybody was competing at the $20 level. At the very top, there is almost no one." In a highly saturated market, it is important that one's name stands out on the shelves. "This (perfume) is a jewel, and everything we do will reflect that," said Kristina Wrba, vice president for Charles of the Ritz's YSL division. She pushed Opium as the ultimate status symbol calling it "the most prestigious line ever" and counted on the sophisticated women who knew YSL's fashion to realize the status implicated. She was especially fond of the limited edition 1/8 oz perfume pendant, a wearable gimmick which could hang around the neck like jewelry, only six would be sent to each outlet. 

Stores across the United States had orders for Opium long before it was at the counters. New York's finest shops, Saks, Bloomingdale's and Henri Bendel expected Opium to one of their biggest Christmas items in years and some sources estimated that their initial orders for the perfume were in the range of $50,000 to $80,000. 

In September 1978, Marvin Traub, chairman of the board of Bloomingdale's said, "Opium went ont sale at Bloomingdale's three days ago and we sold about $1,000 worth in the first hour. We believe that Opium is used as a term of fantasy. This is the way that Saint Laurent handled it and the way we've handled it, too." By December, 1978, sales continued to rise. Mike Blumenfeld, vice president of cosmetics for Bloomingdale's said, "It was an instant success." Blumenfeld admitted he originally had his doubts about the name, and that the store had thought long and hard before marketing the fragrance, but since they had, there had been few complaints.

"It's the most successful launching I've come in contact with," said Margaret Hayes, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics at Saks Fifth Ave. Hayes attributed the success to a combination of factors - the Oriental scent upstaged woodsy and florals based fragrances, the gorgeous packaging and the controversial publicity surrounding the name. 

Department stores across the nation offered elaborate receptions for the fragrance's introduction to their customers. For examples, the I. Magnins in San Francisco and Beverly Hills each treated their curious customers to a special fete to introduce them to the perfume. At each gathering, 300 lucky guests lined up at buffet tables for the mini-brunch that was held at each store. As they nibbled on steamed dumplings and fresh, juicy kiwi fruit, Kimono-clad hostesses walked around serving guests tea and fortune cookies, Some of the women sported the Opium filled tassel necklaces. The chairs were printed place cards entitling the bearer to sample the perfume. They watched a 28 minute showing of Saint Laurent's winter collection and had a chance to try out the Opium fragrance. Van Venneri, the vice president in charge of cosmetics, said that Opium was "number one among the new fragrances," and this was only after a week. "Opium is a vital part of the rich history of the Orient. It was a luxurious drug and an inherent part of the culture. I wanted to create a lush, heavy, indolent fragrance. It evokes all the things I love," said Saint Laurent, who wasn't able to travel to California, but did make an appearance in New York.

Angelo Manolis, the divisional merchandise manager for cosmetics as Chicago's Marshall Field & Co predicted that the scent could be "the most sensational fragrance introduction of the decade." The perfume was to be introduced to Chicago by Marshall Fields in Sept 1978, followed shortly by the local outlets of Saks Fifth Ave, Neiman-Marcus and I. Magnin. Manolis says he was being "bombarded" with requests for the Opium line. Nationally, advance orders piled up, even though most customers had no idea of what the new cent even smelled like.

Betsy Whitsun, buyer of men's and women's fragrances for the Dallas based Neiman Marcus admitted that while Opium has caused "quite a stir, but I wonder how the regular American woman will first react to us advertising Opium." She also said that the psychology of demand for something limited could make it harder to keep in stock, and asked "if you're always out of it, what's the good of it?"

Stores had requests for Opium even before it was stocked on their shelves and when they did finally carry it, they perfume sold like hot cakes resulting in sell outs everywhere. YSL Parfums had a hard time supplying the increased demand. Charles of the Ritz reported "We can't keep it on the shelves." Squibb reported that Opium had made $3 million in sales during the first four months.

In the Los Angeles area, JW Robinson's and I. Magnin's stores had brisk sales of the fragrance. A spokesperson at Robinson's said "the fragrance department has had sales increases in excess of 100%." At I. Magnin, the Opium sales were reported to be "fantastic." Charles of the Ritz reported sales of more than $10 million in the first full year of sales for Opium.

However, on the other hand, many women were afraid to even try Opium. Some women thought that they might get in trouble crossing the borders wearing the perfume Opium.

The response to Opium by other brands was interesting. Estee Lauder jokingly said that Opium was simply "Youth Dew with a tassel." One spokesperson of the Lauder company said, "That was said in a very spontaneous moment. It certainly does seem that Opium is much like Youth Dew. Of course Youth Dew has been a success since 1952 or 1953." But Saint Laurent simply retorted that "My scent was inspired by colorful legends and lore of the Orient." Charles of the Ritz made a comment that "We don't have any axes to grind with Mrs. Lauder." They felt the brouhaha was "silly" and that "ours is unique." Ever aware of the competition, in 1977, Lauder counteracted by launched her own heavy Oriental fragrance, Soft Youth Dew, as a lighter version of the iconic Youth Dew. 

Rachel Skahan, cosmetics buyer for Hovland-Swanson, explained that the new Estee Lauder fragrance, Soft Youth Dew, was an expansion of the iconic Youth Dew line. To the unknowing customer, it might have sounded a little confusing as the original Youth Dew fragrance was still available on shelves. In 1978, Lauder released Cinnabar, Soft Youth Dew. Cinnabar is similar to the original Soft Youth Dew, but carried the scarlet packaging and had lipstick and a nail polish in the same color. Merchandisers predicted that of it took off on the market, the original Soft Youth Dew line would be reduced.

Never one to be outdone, Lauder took to the challenge and packaged her 0.05 oz parfum inside of a miniature inro shaped flacon which cheekily, also sported a tassel! Plus, both brands offered perfume filled, red and gold pendants on black tasseled necklaces! The Cinnabar one retailed at $25 while Opium's cost $35.

Milton Bentz, president of Tuli Latus Perfumes Ltd, maker of designer imposter fragrances said that "Oh, there's no question about it. (Opium) It's really a knockoff (of Youth Dew)." The Tuli Latus firm had received numerous complaints from popular perfume brands over their blatant copying and advertising promises that their knockoff fragrance was basically the same as the high end companies' offerings. In a brash satirical fashion, Tuli Latus sent out a press release which in part chided, "For shame, Yves Saint Laurent! We had hoped you would come out with a beautiful new fragrance we could have copied to offer our customers." 

Tuli Latus succumbed to the pressure of Opium's massive presence and offered their own "version" of it which they called simply, No. 17. Advertisements promoted their copycat fragrance for just $18 an ounce, "saving" customers "over $80" if they purchase the Tuli Latus version rather than the real thing. "Let's face it, 25 years ago, when Youth Dew came out, it was a very fresh, Oriental fragrance," said Bentz, but as for Opium, "it is a strictly Oriental fragrance. It's Youth Dew to a T." Bentz admitted that his firm only needed to "reformulate" their copy of Youth Dew to get a close copy for Opium. "The top note was changed, and a few nuances, but basically it's the same."

Bentz heartily laughed when his attorney called and said that in YSL's excited rush to get Opium into the public, its parent company forgot to register it - and wanted to know if Bentz wished him to fly to Washington immediately, copyright the name for themselves, and then sue the makers of the real Opium for copyright infringement. "I get a kick out of this," said Bentz, who resisted the urge to call his version "Morphine," although he was tempted for a moment. "They were ill advised to use that name," he said seriously while citing the problems it has caused.

However, while none of the expensive brands copied Opium's distinctive scent, they followed suit with their own heavy, Oriental fragrance launches in 1978. Rochas' masterpiece, Mystere, was introduced directly in the USA, while Lancome offered a very untraditional French perfume, the legendary favorite, Magie Noire, with particular attention to its bottle. Both fragrances were competing with another in French magazines, stressing the magical powers of the scents. Today, these iconic fragrances still retain their loyal following. Since they have long been discontinued, they are among the highest priced and most coveted discontinued fragrances on the secondary market.

In 1984, Parfums du Coeur launched their "designer imposter" of the Opium and Cinnabar fragrances they called Ninja. Mark Laracy, owner of Parfums du Coeur, said that I spend an inordinate amount of money on the product, so our product quality is high. Ninja has 95% of the same contents as Opiumm and they are identical in concentration." He would know, he worked for five years for Charles of the Ritz and helped launch Opium in the USA.

By April 1984, Laracy estimated that his sales for Ninja would top $20 million, giving both Opium and Cinnabar a run for their money.

The Fragrance's Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.  It is a beautiful, rare and mysterious Oriental fragrance dripping with spices from distant Siam, Katmandu and Samarkand.
  • Top notes: mandarin orange, plum, attar of cloves, bay leaf, coriander, pepper
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, orris root
  • Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, vanilla, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, Javan benzoin, Siamese benzoin, and castoreum, ambergris, incense, musk, patchouli, tolu, Haitian vetiver
  
Its top notes are a mixture of fruit and spices, with mandarin orange, plum, attar of cloves, coriander and pepper, as well as bay leaf. Its floral middle notes consist predominantly jasmine, rose and lily of the valley, in addition to carnation, cinnamon, peach and orris root.  It is underlined by the sweet woody base note containing sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin from Java and Siam, and castoreum in addition to amber, smoldering incense, musk, patchouli, tolu and vetiver. The maker also hinted that there was a touch of opium, whether this is true or just hype, it is interesting.


Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013:
"Clove was also present in the "Mellis accord", which was a widely used base in spicy oriental fragrances including Youth Dew, Opium and Coco. The mellis accord, which makes up an important part of the fragrance here incorporates amyl salicylate in addition to benzyl salicylate, with the patchouli and hydroxycitronellal (which has a linden blossom-like, sweet, green, radiant odor), spices, woods and coumarin. Since then restrictions have been placed on some of these, so it will have been modified."

The Bottle:



Saint Laurent also envisioned the Japanese inro shaped bottle with its distinctive three drawers, a silky tassel and a gilded sprig of Chinese blossoms on the packaging. Pierre Dinand design the Oriental themed perfume bottle which was encased in a cinnabar colored plastic inro case, based on an antique Japanese design which held perfumes, herbs, medicines and other substances under a kimono. The flacon was tied with a silken tassel and had a small, round clear glass "window" set asymmetrically to the side to see into the bottle. Saint Laurent reportedly insisted that the name "Opium" be larger than his own on the boxes.


Ancillary products:


Opium was available in the following:
  • 1/4 oz Parfum flacon (retailed for $40 in 1979, raised to $50 in 1983, $62 in 1987, $80 in 1993)
  • 1/2 oz Parfum flacon (retailed for $70 in 1979, raised to $80 in 1980)
  • 1 oz Parfum flacon (retailed for $120 in 1979, raised to $130 in 1980, $150 in 1982, $160 in 1983, $170 in 1985, $190 in 1988, $220 in 1994, $240 in 2000)
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Vaporisateur Naturel de Sac with Pochette (retailed for $45 in 1979)
  • 1/8 oz Parfum Pendant Flacon (retailed for $35 in 1979)
  • 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (retailed for $40 in 1979)
  • 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 6 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 1.2 oz Eau de Toilette Vaporisateur Naturel (retailed for $25 in 1979)
  • 2.3 oz Eau de Toilette Vaporisateur Naturel (retailed for $40 in 1979)
  • 4 oz Perfumed Silk Bath (retailed for $20 in 1980)
  • 4 oz Perfumed Soft Body Veil (retailed for $20 in 1980)
  • 6 oz Perfumed Bath Powder (retailed for $21 in 1980)
  • Perfumed Soap Cakes (three with a case retailed for $20 in 1980)
  • 6.6 oz Body Moisturizer
  • 6.6 oz Rich Body Creme (retailed for $38 in 1982)
  • 5.2 oz Satin Body Powder
  • 6.6 oz Luscious Shower Gel

The Parfum Pendant Flacon is of lacquer red and gold, inspired by the precious inros proudly worn by ancient Samurai.


Opium's Legacy:

Opium has spawned several flankers throughout the years:
  • 1992 Opium Secret de Parfum (an Eau de Parfum, part of the Oriental Secrets Collection) discontinued in 2003.
  • 1995 Opium Pour Homme Eau d'Orient
  • 1995 Opium Pour Homme Eau de Parfum
  • 1998 Opium Fraicheur d'Orient 
  • 2002 Opium (reformulation and relaunch in new packaging) 25th Anniversary
  • 2002 Opium Eau D'Ete Summer Fragrance (brushed gold cap)
  • 2003 Opium Secret de Parfum (relaunch) 
  • 2003 Opium Eau D'Ete Summer Fragrance 2003 (black cap)
  • 2004 Opium Eau D'Ete Summer Fragrance 2004 (gold cap)
  • 2005 Opium Fleur du Shanghai
  • 2005 Opium Eau de Parfum
  • 2006 Opium Fleur Imperiale
  • 2006 Opium Oriental Limited Edition
  • 2006 Opium Pour Homme Eau d'Orient
  • 2007 Opium Orchidée de Chine
  • 2007 Opium Orient Extreme (limited edition refillable bottle)
  • 2007 Opium Pour Homme Eau d'Orient 2007
  • 2007 Opium Légendes de Chine Eau de Parfum
  • 2008 Opium Collector Edition 
  • 2008 Opium Elixir Voluptueux
  • 2008 Opium Poesie de Chine pour Homme
  • 2008 Opium Poesie de Chine pour Femme
  • 2009 Opium (reformulated)
  • 2010 Belle d'Opium (notes of jasmine, gardenia, white pepper, tobacco, amber, woods and incense)
  • 2011 Opium Swarovski Limited Edition Flacon 
  • 2012 Belle d`Opium Eau de Parfum Éclat
  • 2012 Opium Vapeurs de Parfum
  • 2013 Opium Eau de Toilette Limited Edition Flacon
  • 2013 Opium Gold Collector's Edition
  • 2014 Opium Collector's Edition 2014
  • 2014 Black Opium
  • 2015 Black Opium Eau de Toilette
  • 2015 Black Opium Swarovski Edition
  • 2015 Opium Rouge Fatal (Collector's Edition 2015)
  • 2016 Black Opium Nuit Blanche
  • 2016 Black Opium Wild Edition
  • 2016 Black Opium Sparkle Clash Limited Collector`s Edition Eau de Parfum
  • 2016 Black Opium Sparkle Clash Limited Collector`s Edition Eau de Toilette
  • 2017 Black Opium Pure Illusion
  • 2017 Black Opium Dazzling Lights Edition
  • 2017 Black Opium Floral Shock
  • 2017 Opium Extrait de Parfum 40th Anniversary Edition
  • 2018 Black Opium Hair Mist
  • 2018 Black Opium Eau de Toilette (2018) 


Fate of the Fragrance:


YSL offered Opium Fraicheur d'Orient, a lighter version for summer wear in 1981. Ultralight and sheer with a fresh hit of bergamot and watermelon on the top and that sultry dry-down of vanilla and caramel. Frosted spray bottle, retailed for $55 in 1998.

Opium has been reformulated over the years, most notably in 2002-2003. To help celebrate its 25th Anniversary, this version was released in new packaging for its eau de toilette and parfum. Also introduced was a new line of body products all infused with poppy flower extract: body lotion with honey leaves, bath gel with myrrh milk, body cream with golden saffron, and body oil with honey leaves. The updated scent contains mandarin orange, bergamot, lily of the valley, jasmine, carnation, vanilla, red myrrh, amber, opoponax and patchouli.

Opium did not get it's first brush with an Eau de Parfum until 1992, when the limited edition Secret de Parfum was released for a few years. Secret de Parfum was available as a refillable 1.6 oz size in 1992. A small 0.11 oz vial was often given as a gift with purchase. Secret de Parfum was sold until 2001 then was discontinued and relaunched in 2003, then discontinued again by 2005.




It was not until 2005, that the actual Opium Eau de Parfum was launched, prior to this period, only Parfum and Eau de Toilette were available.


Success spawns imitations:



Based on the success of Opium, other perfume companies wanted to have their “versions” of the
fragrance.


Rochas introduced us to Mystere, Estee Lauder brought out Cinnabar, Lancome introduced its Magie Noire, Roberto Cavalli brought us Oro, Calvin Klein had his Obsession, and Christian Dior launched Dioressence.



Limited Edition:


Opium arrived on the market in a new flacon in autumn 2009. Design of the flacon was developed by art director YSL Fabien Baron and Stefano Pilati. The new flacon features a sprinkle integrated inside its stopper. Notes of this edition are bergamot, mandarin, jasmine and myrrh. The new bottle is accompanied with advertising campaign the face of which is Karen Elson. The Parfum version was restructured to be more headier and more voluptuous than the original, but without being cloying. The new formula includes jasmine sambac, myrrh ,amber, and patchouli.

Opium pour Homme:


YSL launched the male version of Opium, called Opium pour Homme in 1995, created by Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich. Its main note is set by vanilla, with black currant, galangal, star anise, ginger and pepper, fusing with basic notes of cedar and Tolu balsam. Its bottle was designed by Jérôme Failliant-Dumas.

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